Selector's Luftaufnahmen Mod


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  Picture 1

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  Picture 2

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  Picture 3

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  Picture 4

BUILDING TIPS:

  • The camera is fitted "in force" in a "polystyrene" support shaped (on the under) to fit to the EZ at the place the original canopy normally comes (Picture 1)

  • On picture 1 you see the [mount and camera] set is fitted on the EZ simply with a pair of rubber band (normally used to attach wings to the fuselage) (maybe you will have to use tighter rubber bands if you wanna try take some photo while looping !)

  • The triggering servo is fitted in "shrink wrap" then epoxied to the polystyrene mount (Picture 2 and 3).

  • On picture 2 you can see I glued a thin balsa sheet piece (2.5 mm) at the bottom of the support, it is the "floor" on which the camera stands, while firmy maintained between the 2 polystyrene walls of the support. (see on picture 4, distance d is a little less than the camera thickness)

  • You can see on picture 3 that the servo can either push on the power switch (on the left), or on the trigger switch (on the right). This way i can have the camera switched on/off while flying ...

  • The support itself is made with some polystyrene coming from a computer screen packaging (you know, the polystyrene pieces in the box, which prevent the screen from being hurt with something piercing through the cardboard wall of the box, during transport). This kind of polystyrene is more dense than the average polystyrene used for thermal insulation for ex. (if we consider polystyrene as being made of thousands of micro polystyrene balls "glued" together, in the one i used the "balls" are smaller than in standard polystyrene) Compared to standard polystyrene it is also more resistant to compression (i mean if you push firmly with your thumb on the surface, it wont get a mark, where it would quite easily be marked with standard polystyrene) This kind of polystyrene can be easily cut with a simple knife, but you have to sharpen the knife very often (after each 4 or 5 cuts i sharpen it, so the cutting is very neat)

  • The mount for the camera was built by assembling 2 pieces of polystyrene with 5 min Epoxy. As I was lucky enough to find some curves in the polystyrene piece i used, i cound manage to get a "U" pattern (seeing from the top on picture 4), otherwisde i would have had to glue 3 pieces in a perpendicular way. On picture 4 you can see the only glue join i had to do.

  • On picture 1 and 4 you can see i tried to provide the best aerodynamical profile to the mount (by cutting then sanding the rough support). In order to minimize the increase in drag, of course.

CONCLUSION:

What I liked in this mounting was :
  • with it i did my first AP session !

  • the servo is not glued to the camera

  • the camera is mounted on the left, because my "newbie piloting performance" is better on left turns than in right turns...!

  • it takes only 30 seconds to switch between the original canopy and the AP mounting, and another 30 seconds to get the CG at the right place by moving the battery rearward. (I had to add just a few grams of lead at the tail of the EZ Star)

  • polystyrene is really easy to be cut and glued (NO CYANO, or ONLY FOAM SAFE CYANO !!!)

What I disliked:
  • the angle of the camera is so that it aims approximately to the horizon, which is great if you want to take a picture of something very far in distance from the plane. But if you want pictures of something that is nearly UNDER the plane, you will have to turn very straight (on the left if the camera is on the left) in order to get enough inclination of the camera for it to aim at the ground. THis is far not a good solution, because when turning, the pictures you take will surely be flooded. Ideally you shoud have 2 (or more) setups, one with the camera aiming at the horizon or a little under, and another with about 45 deg angle, so you don't have to turn in order to aim at the ground.

  • Take care if, like on my setup, the camera aims in the same direction that the wing : it will be far easier for you to aim what you want, trying to align the wing with the subject of the photo, but this wing may also appear in the left side of your pictures, thus hiding what you want to photography.

Most important thing I learned :
  • Talking about the camera aiming direction, TWO angles are really important to consider : - angle seen from the top of the plane (around the yaw axis) = try to aim nearly perpendicular to the fuse, like that from the ground you will virtually photograph what your wing aims to (but do some testing to avoid having 10% of the photo hided by this blue wing !) - angle seen from the front of the plane (around the roll axis) = it's this angle which rules which portion of the sky you will photography : if parallel to the wing you will catch the horizon and below, if 45 deg between wing and vertical axe, you will catch a far more portion of the ground.